The "Low Tension", Road Toad Music's - Pahoehoe polyurethane strings (Black)
They're $22.00 delivered, from Californiahttp://www.bassuke.com/Pahoehoe.html
The tone and sustain of the Pahoehoe
"Lows" and the gooey Fender strings are VERY comparable . Unlike the early polyurethane Pahoehoe
"Standard" strings, or the overly stiff Worths, the Lows play very much like the Fender strings, and provide some welcome durability
. Unexpected broken "G" and "D" strings should be a thing of the past.* BONUS * TALC IS NO LONGER REQUIRED!
With Tone Finger-ease String Lubricant
, you can forget about the messiness of talc. A single spray application of Finger-ease before a gig or practice, is all that is required. The polyurethane string material is totally unaffected by the silicone lubricant, which is a tried and true product that has been used by stringed instrument players for years. Honestly, you actually WILL get smooth, quiet and effortless strings on your 'bory...with NO downside. Sweetwater.com has String-ease for $4.59 - delivered.Unfortunately, Finger-ease does not work with Fender's silicone strings.http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FingerEase
NOTE: Click the images below to enlarge them
.Attaching the strings to the bridge and tuners
Due to the thickness
of the polyurethane strings, you must use a unique install method.
All but the "G" string have securely crimped and shrink-tubing covered metal terminations on one end. The size of the terminations on the "A" and "D" strings fit perfectly as is, and go on easily. I found that the "E" string's crimp needs some modification or total removal. It's just too long. In my case, an attempt to cut off part of the metal crimp caused the crimp to let go...anyway.
I didn't use any knots to secure the "A", "D" and "G" strings at the tuners. I pull the loose ends through the slot, then under the string as it begins to wind on. I make sure to keep tension on the string-end as I continue winding. So far I haven't noted any slippage.
The bridge cavity:
The tuners-2: For "G" and "E", Nylon Tie-wraps are your friend
As I mentioned earlier, the "G" string doesn't require a knot at the tuner. Use the "Tuck-under" method as used on the "A" and "D" strings.
Unfortunately, the firmer and thinner polyurethane "G" string is so slippery it defies tying a single knot at the bridge. The solution... Use a black tie-wrap on the end of the string as an anchor for a single knot...and you're good to go. Man, I LOVE the sound and feel of that new "G", and I have no concern about leaving it under tension at all times.
"G" at the bridge:
Due to the diameter of the "E" string, I had to deploy the tie-wrap method again at the bridge. Tying a conventional knot is totally out of the picture. For the bridge connection, I doubled over the end of the string, then attached a medium-sized, black, tie-wrap. I used an inexpensive tie-wrap gun to make the job MUCH easier. This termination method fits nicely, and is unobtrusive.
"E" at the bridge:
There has been no slippage or movement of the bridge connection for any of the strings. Woo-Hoo!
At the tuner, you must pull the "E" string through the slot, then attach a black tie-wrap...instead of tying a knot.
"E" at the tuner:
To remove the wraps, simply clip the wrap's locking part with wire cutters, or a sturdy pair of scissors. The nylon wraps are pretty tough, so be careful not to slip and damage the underlying string.
That's it! If you have tried the hard Worth or "Standard" Pahoehoe
polyurethane bass strings, and were unimpressed...you really should consider these new "Lows". Yes, they do cost more up front, but individual string replacement costs should be reduced or totally eliminated, and you don't need to use TALC !!!