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Preface
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Spindle Assembly Removal
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Spindle Assembly Disassembly
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Gear Removal/Replacement
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Spindle Assembly Reassembly
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Spendle Assembly Replacement
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Footnotes
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Measurements
-
Checklist
PREFACE
The following set of instructions are intended as a guide. Your experience
will differ. Consult the manufacturer's illustrated parts breakdown
and parts list throughout this process.
The part nomenclatures used here are as stated in the Instruction Manual.
As such, they may not equate to common English terminology (e.g., "fuselage"
vs. column body).
SPINDLE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL (see diagram, page 11, of the Instruction Manual)
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Unplug the mill
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Remove the drawbar, washer, bushing, and all tooling
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Remove the speed control box, p/n 111
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Remove the outer plate (4 screws)
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Remove the 3 attaching screws inside
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Re-attach the outer plate, leaving the 3 attaching screws inside for safe
keeping
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Remove the motor (4 screws) and motor seat, p/n 127 & 130, as one assembly
and set them on the mill bed
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Remove the upper end washer and screw, p/n 102 & 103
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Using the adjusting handle, raise the spindle head as high as it will go,
until the pinion gear, p/n 50, disengages from the gear rack, p/n 46
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Set the limit block, p/n 65, to hold the assembly in place
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Remove the connecting block, p/n 76 (2 screws)
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Loosen the gib (3 screws) and the handle, p/n 30
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Lift the spindle box and spindle box seat, p/n 49 & 63, off the fuselage
(caution: it's heavy). Ensure the gib, p/n 45, doesn't fall
and break.
SPINDLE
ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY
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Remove the cover, p/n 96, over the fine-adjustment rod (2 screws)
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Remove the bracket, p/n 89 (2 screws)
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Detach the spindle box seat, p/n 63, from the spindle box, p/n 49, by unscrewing
the 4 bolts (p/n 60) at the rear of the spindle seat (note:
the diagram on page 11 labels the spindle box as p/n 49 - on page 12 it's
incorrectly labelled as p/n 47)
At this point, if only lubrication of the gears is desired, skip
to Spindle Assembly Reassembly
GEAR REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT
(see diagram, pg. 12, of the Instruction Manual. You must remove
the idler gear and shaft to replace the transmission gears)
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Idler Gear/Shaft Removal
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Remove the top gear, screw, washers, and key, p/n 132 & 138 (the upper
key is not shown in the diagram)
-
In preparation for the next step, either elevate the bottom of the spindle
box by putting blocks on each side of the idler shaft or lay the spindle
box on its side
-
Using a soft-faced hammer or other appropriate tool (see footnote #1)
, tap the idler shaft, p/n 113, from the upper end (not the end with
the snap ring, p/n 115) until it is free from the upper bearing, p/n 139.
The shaft and lower bearing may come out of the spindle box as one.
This is preferred.
-
Slide the transmission gear, p/n 140, off the shaft as you remove the shaft/bearing
from the housing. Remove the shift bar, p/n 141, from the linking
board, p/n 142, during this process. Leave the key, p/n 114,
in the shaft.
-
If further disassembly is required, set these parts aside, else proceed
to Idler Gear/Shaft Replacement
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Transmission Gear/Spindle Removal
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Using a chisel or equivalent, mark the location of the
spindle nut, p/n 119, on the spindle, p/n 79 (you'll need this reference
point to tighten the nut back correctly)
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Loosen the set screw in the spindle nut (not shown in diagram)
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Engage the spindle nut with the sprocket wrench
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Using a separate wrench(see footnote #4), grab
the bushing
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Remove the spindle nut, p/n 119, by rotating the nut CLOCKWISE
(NOTE:
it is a LEFT-HAND THREAD)(see
footnote #5)
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Remove the spacing ring, p/n 118
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Remove the key, p/n 120
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Place the spindle box right-side up on two blocks, one on each side
of the spindle (to allow the spindle and bearing to fall through during
the next step)
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Using a soft-faced hammer or other appropriate tool(see footnote #1),
tap the spindle from the top until it is loose from the upper bearing.
The spindle and lower bearing may come out of the spindle box as one.
This is preferred.
-
Continue with the spindle removal until the spindle is removed. This
will leave the transmission gear, p/n 80, and the top and bottom spacing
rings, p/n 116, in the spindle box. Remove the gear (you might
have to joggle the high/low gear shift, p/n 107/8/9, to get it out).
Leave the key, p/n 78, in the spindle shaft (see footnote #3).
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Transmission Gear/Spindle Replacement
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Insert the new gear, p/n 80, in the spindle box
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Make sure the gear is properly oriented (large gear at top)
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Make sure there is one spacing ring at the top of the gear and one at the
bottom
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Insert the spindle/bearing assembly back through the bottom hole of the
spindle box, then through the lower spacing ring, p/n 116, the gear, p/n
80, the upper spacing ring, p/n 116, and into the upper bearing (see footnote
#2) . Align the key in the spindle with
the key slots in the gear and the bottom spacing ring during this process
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Place the spindle box upside down on two blocks, one on each side
on the spindle
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Using a soft-faced hammer or other appropriate tool (see footnote #1)
, tap the spindle from the bottom of the shaft until the keyway in the
upper portion of the spindle shaft is fully exposed above the upper bearing
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Lay the spindle box on its side
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Insert the key, p/n 120, into the keyway
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Insert the spacing ring, p/n 118, over the spindle shaft
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Continue tapping the spindle from the bottom until the threaded portion
is about 2 threads past the top of the spacing ring
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Turn the spindle box right-side up
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Using the same wrench setup as during removal, screw the spindle nut on
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE
until it is tight and the marks you made in instruction B.1
are aligned
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Tighten the set screw in the spindle nut
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Verify that everything moves freely
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Idler Gear/Shaft Replacement
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Insert the gear , p/n 140, and the shift bar, p/n 141, into the spindle
box. Ensure the gear is correctly oriented (small gear at top), and
that the shift bar is engaged around the gear and into the linking board,
p/n 142
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Insert the idler shaft and bearing into the bottom of the spindle and through
the gear(see footnote #2), engaging the key into
the slot in the gear
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Using a soft hammer or appropriate tool(see footnote #1),
tap the idler shaft/bearing assembly back into the upper bearing
until the lower bearing is fully seated. If needed, tap the shaft
back out from the top so that the snap ring, p/n 115, is not touching the
bottom bearing
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Reattach the top gear, key, washers, and screw, p/n 132 & 138
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Verify that everything moves freely (see footnote #6
)
SPINDLE
ASSEMBLY REASSEMBLY
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Assemble in reverse order as disassembly.
SPINDLE
ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
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Place the spindle assembly on the fuselage, allowing it to rest on the
limit block, p/n 65
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Insert the gib into place and adjust loosely
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Finish assembly in reverse order as disassembly
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Adjust gib and handle pressure as desired
FOOTNOTES
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I used a hammer and block of wood for this process.
An arbor or hydraulic press would work as well. Main concern is not
damaging any of the metal parts
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This is a very tight fit. Be patient but
firm in pressing the gear back on. Force it on using your hand, not
a hammer, to protect the gear. I slightly filed down the edge of
the slot in the gear and the top edge of the key to encourage their engagement.
A little 3-in-1 oil helped, too
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This would be a good time to drill lubrication
holes in the spindle box if so desired
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Channel locks should work
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You may find it easier to
use the sprocket wrench on the bushing by inserting the nipple on the wrench
into the hole in the side of the bushing, and a different wrench on the
spindle nut
-
Now would be a good time
to lubricate all the gears, if desired
.
MEASUREMENTS
Gears
Gear
|
Total Height
|
Larger Gear
|
Smaller Gear
|
Gear Height
|
080 (Spindle gear) |
1.75" |
2.66" dia., 0.34" width, 29 teeth |
2.01" dia., 0.35" width, 21 teeth |
0.25" |
140 (Transmission gear) |
0.96" |
1.95" dia., 0.35" width, 20 teeth |
1.49" dia., 0.34" width, 12 teeth |
0.25" |
138 (attached to idler shaft) |
0.25" |
2.99" dia., 30 teeth |
n/a
|
0.25" |
128 (attached to motor) |
0.25" |
0.95" dia. 14 teeth |
n/a
|
0.25" |
Gear Comments:
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The measurements were taken with a vernier caliper (Starrett) ,and are
only to the hundredths, due to the fluctuations in the plastic. Not
having a metric tool measuring device to that precision, I could only measure
in inches.
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Gear diameters are not precise, since the number of teeth is odd.
The measurements were obtained by literally turning the gear between the
jaws of the caliper and recording the maximum distance. Again, being
plastic, there was some variation.
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The smaller diameter of p/n 140 is a 'best guess'. This gear is the
one on back order, and mine is broken in two, with only 3 teeth remaining.
I measured the hub as well as possible, measured the tooth height, then
added that twice to the hub diameter.
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The gear height (distance from hub to edge) is rough and was taken
from the tooth edge to where it 'appeared' the hub should be.
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The gear widths are different between the two sets. It is slight,
but noticable. The high speed combination is thinner than the slow
speed.
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I didn't measure the inside diameter of each gear, but I assume it matches
the respective shaft diameters of 30mm for the spindle shaft and 12mm for
the transmission shaft. The spindle gear (p/n 140) was a tight fit.
The transmission gear (p/n 80) fit is looser, as it has to slide easily
along its shaft.
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The motor gear to spindle gear (p/n 128:p/n 138) ratio is 14:30, or 0.47:
1. The high speed gear ratio is 21:20, or 1.05:1 . The slow
speed gear ratio is 12:29, or 0.41:1 .
Bearings
Bearing
|
Stock Part Number
|
O/D
|
I/D
|
Width
|
123 (Spindle) |
6206-Z |
62 mm |
30 mm |
16 mm |
139 (Idler Shaft) |
6001-Z |
28 mm |
12 mm |
8 mm |
Bearing Comments:
The spindle and idler shaft bearings are single row, deep-grooved (or
Conrad-type) double shielded radial ball bearings. They are stock
metric bearings.
This means that they are available from a number of sources. All you
need to do is ask for this number or equivalent. If for the remotest of
reasons you should ever need to replace them, they would be available from
sources other than Grizzly . (I have a feeling the same holds true
on the HF 7x10 and its 'clones').
Spindle Shaft
The total length is about 167mm. The first 15mm or so is threaded 27
x 1.5 left-handed, for the spindle nut at the top. The next 122mm of length
is 30mm in diameter and is what the gear and bearings ride on. The latter
30mm of the shaft is 40mm in diameter. This is the bottom portion which
receives the collets. The lower bearing sits on the shoulder where
the shaft goes from 30mm to 40mm.
CHECKLIST
Use the following checklist to document your progress:
Task Name
|
Step Number
|
Completed/Comments
|
SPINDLE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL |
1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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6
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7
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8
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9
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10
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SPINDLE ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY |
1
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2
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3
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|
GEAR REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT: |
|
|
Idler Gear/Shaft Replacement |
1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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Transmission Gear/Spindle Removal |
1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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6
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7
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8
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9
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10
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Transmission Gear/Spindle Replacement |
1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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6
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7
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8
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9
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10
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11
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12
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Idler Gear/Shaft Replacement |
1
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2
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3
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4
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SPINDLE ASSEMBLY REASSEMBLY |
1
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SPINDLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT |
1
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2
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3
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4
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Selah!